They burp way easier cause of the higher pressure and there just isn’t much to choose from
I have these in 25’s.
And in the wet, they are awesome. I have put 1000’s of kms on them and I can’t recall a single puncture.
I also hav Veloflex Records 23’s on other wheels with are great. But way slippery and nowhere near as puncture resistant.
Both clinchers btw
EDIT: Sorry, I see the original post is 5 months old.
Barely, and not in real world applications. And yes, a 23mm pro 3 race will always be better than a 25mm CST. (But a 25mm Pro3Race on a 23mm rim… now you’re cooking with gas.
I was riding on the boulie this morning on greasy roads with well worn 26mm Grand Bois tyres, never a hint of slip. Greater contact patch and good rubber FTW.
Pressure, yep, road tubeless has a square carbon fibre bead, which is of course, patented. So tyre selection is limited, and unless there’s a huge push for the pro peleton to use them over tubulars it’s unlikely many other companies will pay the $$ to be able to develop/license tech/make the tyres.
Interestingly, Mickey (of Spooky) dropped some knowledge on MTB tubeless at world level, apparently it’s still not good enough for the best riders who are at the very edge of adhesion and will burp the air out, so by and large it’s still tubulars for XC and tubes for AM/DH/4X etc
Wasn’t there a link in the zinn article showing wider tyre + wider rim is more aero (this might be what you are refering to).
Fair enough. For my MTB riding, the swap to tubeless was noticeable, both the lack of punctures (due to latex) and improved ride quality. I burped air out in a race once… learnt quickly that the pressure was too low. I suppose at the higher pressure of road tyres, the improved ride quality might not be as notable for the same tyre, but the puncture protection would allow me to swap to a lighter/more supple tyre, would it not?
I’m loving my 26mm Gran Bois’ too … same, well worn and sweeter riding each day but they are getting close to needing replacement which is sad. They’ve done just over to 3k which is really good considering my advanced measurements and being a supple and reasonably soft compound tyre 
The GB tyres I’ve run have all been great, my only disappointment is that they tend to deform at the join before the tread wears out.
- Joel
I’ve got the challenge parigi-roubaix 27c clincher (29c actual) on my primate. They’re 260tpi and roll like a dream. I’ve had one puncture in around 300kms, so yet to see if the ride quality overshadows their rumoured fragility. Here’s hoping I have good luck with them, because they’re so freakin nice. Fingers crossed.
Thats what everyone says about those Paris roubaix tyres- amazing ride, but no puncture protection at all.
Don’t get me wrong, I’d buy them for the awesome gum wall looks alone!
Running Vittoria Open Pave Evo’s and they are amazing grippy, and ride pretty nice (24c). The rear won’t last more then 3000km IMO.
Racy Tires don’t tend to last long In the back. As long as your not using your bike to ride to and from work I think they are totally worth the monies… Hell I nail a set of front brake pads In less than 1000kms
I got around 5000km out of my rubino pro slicks (black/grey) dual compound. I never had any problems with them, and I think I had about two flats in that whole 5000km. Then I ran some Conti gp4000s’s, and they are amazing.
Excepting the odd slit or gash from road detritus, my tyres always last a long time. Maybe I’m just lucky - lord knows I am not a smooth rider.
Fatter tyres are indeed something to strive towards. I still run 23’s myself, however now I have a set of 23mm rims I will never go back to a narrow rim. A wider rim has people asking if my tyres are 25’s, and they ride like tubulars. I’ve been running Schwalbe Ultremo R1’s for the last 1000km and they are excellent. Even over the rough blue chip country roads I sometimes ride on they are beautiful. At about 85-90psi they make my bike feel like a magic carpet.
So I run gp4000s 23x700c on 19mm Stan’s
I’m 67-68 kg at the moment
What psi should I run I usually just go 100.
So I’m 72kg, and been running 23c Gators on 23mm wide rims with 4x lacing at 110 psi and always wondered why my steel bike had a bone jarring ride 
Even worse on my alloy bike which has 23mm wide rims with 36 spoke each too.
Naturally I thought running a lower psi would be more comfortable, but I thought it felt crap with the added sponginess in the front end… And gator sidewalks aren’t great either… Maybe I’ll give it a go at 100psi!
I’m similar weight to you: I was running 25c gators on my alloy/crabon frok c’dale, at about 90 rear/85 front. Made the ride a hell of a lot less jarring, it still rolled fine and cornered without dramas.
90 front 95 in the rear
If you find it too soft give em both another 5psi… The ride will be more comfortable and you won’t find the bike any slower.
Folks, measure your wheel weight. One set of scales if fine, two makes it quicker. I was quite surprised at how much more weight I had on the rear wheel. It’s commonly quoted 55/45 is the rear/front split for road bikes but I think it’s closer to 60/40 and once you have riser’s, or carry stuff in a bag or backpack or on panniers it’s more like 65/35 or even more, sometimes 70/30 for mtb’s.
And by measure I mean get on the bike in your normal position and dressed/carrying exactly how you ride it if you only have one set of bathroom scales make sure to raise the other wheel with some books or wood to have the wheel heights even. Then use the charts and apportion the air in your tyres according to the loads you have at either end rather than a guesswork 5psi less in the front.
p.s. do it in the hallway as it’s easier to use elbows and stay upright
p.p.s. report here what % rear/front weight split you have with bike set up/type and what you carry so it can be used as useful data for comparison
Wilco Spirito
I just got 56% rear and 44% front not too unexpected
This I will try.
Good excuse to get
a) new forks
b) new wheels with wider rims