3/32", not 1/8".
But Izumi do one of those too
Or any 7/8sp chain / singlespeed specific chain. Use a quick link, clean it often, minimise wear.
I cant help but think you could do a little better in the mud than this.
I’ve had 2 SRAM 9 speed chains break on me this year. Would not recommend. Also they’re ramped which is less than ideal for SS. And lastly the SRAM ‘powerlink’ is a pain in the arse to install. The KMC ‘missing link’ are 100x better.
Another vote for the Nickel-plated Izumi 1/2 x 3/32. Much better than the KMC Kool chain for instance (smoother and lighter).
Another one that might be good would be a Wippermann Connex.
A mate on a ‘round the world’ trip on a rolhoff equipped bike is using a Wipperman 808, must last pretty good.
Connex 808, 320kms so far so good.
Agreed Wipperman Connex chains are the shizzle. Also their missing link are as good, if not better than KMC. Seems to be some confusion over whether you can reuse some of the SRAM missing links- I think most they sell you can (but perhaps their cheap chains have the use-once connector?).
Yeah, i’m not sure about 10sp ones. I have broken and connected my PC890s by hand more than 10 times each with the supplied link. The connex is easier, but I find the SRAM good. My wife is much better than me at disconnecting them, so I give her the job and we are all of a sudden having “together time” working on my bike.
The rohloff site has a great pic of their chain making machine. Anyone got the rohloff revolver 3 chain breaker? New object of desire for me. I used to have the autolube bullet thing that you could activate mid ride for a bit of chain lube on the go. I always wanted to turn it into a pen.
Sweet. So thanks largely to Sime, I am now contemplating a 2011 specialized crux. If this is what I end up buying and I want to run it ss, what do people suggest re: chain, bb, cranks, rear hub?
So far I am looking at an eccentric bb with a 120mm rear hub spaced correctly (is this even possible?) or a standard bb with a WI eno eccentric hub.
I’m also thinking of putting force cranks on it, is this doable? Sorry for the newb questions, it’s all Sime’s fault for the frame suggestion
No 120mm wheels. The Crux is 130mm or 135mm for the disc version.
EBB > Eccentric wheel IMO.
You’ll have to ask Sime to confirm the BB in the 2011 Crux, the frameset appears to be 68mm threaded, the various completes have BB30 or threaded.
Force cranks have a different spindle diameter to Shimano/FSA, there might be a shim, but I’m not 100% on that.
SRAM’s bottom brackets, while interchangeable between all SRAM and Truvativ cranksets, are brand specific – meaning, they can only be installed with SRAM cranks. The key element that makes them different from a Shimano or FSA bottom bracket is that the left side bearing has a smaller diameter to mate with the stepped spindle of the SRAM crank. This design allows the inner race of the left side bearing to be captured between the crankarm and the spindle, effectively locating the crank. The right side bearing “floats” on the spindle handling only radial loads as you pedal. The SRAM design optimizes bearing load, minimizes drag, and gives you durability.
For BB30 & Eccentric, snag some 105/Ultegra compact ext BB cranks on ebay for cheap and you’re laughing. Or perhaps some FSA carbon cranks.
For 68mm & Eccentric, get the eccentric axle hub, as Forward Components 68mm EBB are dead and the other options (Phil etc) are just too $$$. Evan @Cyclic might have a local solution, but not yet. Then get whatever cranks… turn your crank.
Chainline wise, I ran a WI wheel & freewheel with 105 cranks, ring on the inner and a bashguard on the outer, plus 2 thin spacers between the DS cup and BB shell. Perfect chainline.
FOA - upselling peoples bike purchasing decisions since 2006!
So Trigger still keen on the Crux?
Gotta say that if you’re running it SS you could even look at steel frames w full carbon fork and that bike would still be light as a feather. The crux seems like a poor option if you’re planning a dedicated SSCXer - 130mm spacing/vertical dropouts . Maybe a Salsa CCC would be more up to the task with its replaceable ’ swop-outs or a Traitor Crusader; or a Spot Brand Mod (if you’re really feeling loaded… which it seems you are).
yeah, I like how this thread has gone from a simple Q about BB’s to ‘just buy a new bike’.
If we’re honest, the $30.00 Shimano/Tange UN BB will be fine!
even after this long, i think you fail to understand trigger and his purchasing decisions…
Nik, you know me too well…
Given the amount of money I am pouring into this build, I figure an extra $70 for a bb isn’t such a big deal. As it stands I now have some force cranks that I picked up second hand for a decent price, and I have a potential second hand 2011 crux frame that I’ll be getting from the states for a song. My undersatnding is that I’ll need a GXP bottom bracket (frame I am looking at is threaded 68mm) to be able to use the force cranks. I have read about the gutter seal BB, is this the best for CX? Also, should I be looking at ceramic bearings or is that another marketing scam?
I appreciate your advice, understanding and patience on this issue and realise that I am a it of a nuff nuff when it comes to understanding the workings of a bicycle.
And I thought I had a problem
Not according to a reputable NZ dirt rag. ENDURO BEARING PROPAGANDA | Spoke Magazine
XD15s - the shizzle.
I believe the answer is yes, you will need a GXP outboard BB.
And for Ceramic in wheel context- I read an article that ceramic bearings have a few % less resistance than high quality steel bearings and as wheel bearing resistance is only a very small % of the total resistance on the bike upgrading to ceramic will only reduce resistance by 0.01% or something. Not sure about longevity or mud and such.
I thought I had a problem too, then I realised that the real victim in all of this is my poor, sweet girlfriend.