I’ve had some weinnman deep v’s for 2 1/2 years. Paint didnt peel off, decals came off fine, have taken them overseas and ridden them round and put them on and off numerous buses and planes, ride them on street, on and of curbs, potholes, and the occasional shite attempt at poppin it up. So unless you plan on jumping stairs they are fine. I’d like to see a “strength test” between them and velocity’s. As far as everyday use I don’t think anyone would notice a difference. They use the exact same hubs as on Velocity wheel builds.
I upgraded my wheels for the hell of it, nothin wrong with the weinnman’s, i just got a nice deal off OH NAH blogspot dude so I bought a 2nd wheelset.
Did a topic a while back warning about buying wheels from Bicycle_outlet on ebay. Don’t do it. They’re actual bastards. Sent wheels with gouges on the inside of the rim from build and offered $16 compensation or buyer pays return postage (about $40) for refund. They didn’t apologise, acted like morons in communication and accused us of being scam artists in feedback.
Hey, I remember that! There were drilling marks on the inside of the spoke holes, yeah? Why would they accuse you of being scam artists? That’s pretty rough of them.
Hello All
Am new to the forum. I was wondering if anyone has had any experience with Miche Pistard wheelset - considering ordering from the states as i found a site listing them at around 260US. They seem rather light around 2kg for the set, but are they durable enough for regular street use etc? - After 18months use my Alex DA 22’s just died, which is more than a little frustrating!
2kg is not ‘light’. But for a entry level track racing wheelset they should be fine. Miche track hubs have a good rep, whether the rims and spokes are of the same standard I don’t know.
Chances are that in a few months you’ll want to upgrade your wheelset for something that looks good or is stronger etc. Skip the cheap stuff and buy a quality set straight up
They’d be good, but be aware that the stock bearings in the primato hubs aren’t sealed that well against really inclement conditions (eg lots of water/sand/salt). They’d be fine for typical urban hipster use. That said, bearings are a standard size and an easy upgrade when the time comes.
A normal SS freewheel uses the ISO standard thread, while some BMX freewheels use a smaller diameter thread (so that they can get smaller cog sizes). I’d check the inside diameter of your freewheel first, but if it’s 17T, there’s a chance it will be big enough to have the ISO thread.
If the wheelset you buy has a freewheel thread, then all you need is the freewheel itself. No lockrings needed.
B43’s are super super heavy. I have a B43 wheel set and a hand built mavic tubular rim laced to miche primato hubs wheel set built by Peter Bundy as well. I prefer the tubulars because they are much lighter although not that practical for everyday road riding. Usually i have the B43 on the back and the tubular on the front, trying to keep the weight down. Plus it looks fresh.
They were my girlfriend’s wheels and she was civil toned and reasonable in correspondence but they were clearly moronic. “We sell our wheels at such a low price so we can’t pay return shipping for damaged products. You should understand that we’re trusting you haven’t broken the wheels yourself (It’s completely clear what’s wrong in the 6 pictures we sent)” etc. etc. I think they may have overpaid her compensation of $16 as a last hope for good feedback but I can’t imagine it being anywhere near making up for their devaluation of the product in regards to a hypothetical resale.
They definitely are, that’s the exact setup I have on my Giant CRX3 so that I can use a carbon fork without vbrake bosses. If you use Vbrake levers with a 105 caliper the braking will be shit. BMX levers have more leverage and less cable pull.
Why go SS? Might as well use a multi speed stuck in one gear. Go all the way and ride fixed. I haven’t had any problems and I’m uncoordinated.