Compiling all the smugness here so I can just point people to it instead of digging up posts scattered throughout threads.
By no means is this a complete guide to every frame / fender / tyre / light / trick, just the better of the options I’ve used/seen.
No mounts, arse saver:
S-Blade: S-BLADE - mudguards - de - SKS Germany
Xtra Dry: X-TRA-DRY - mudguards - de - SKS Germany
Ass saver: http://www.cellbikes.com.au/Ass-Saver-Foldable-Emergency-Mudguard-Fender
Cons: Only keeps your arse dry, good QR for fast fit, but likely to be stolen like a Flamingo (Chuz!)
Zefal Swan: Swan Road - Zéfal
Flamingo replacement. Cons: slower to fit, still easy to steal. Arse coverage only.[u]
No mounts, partial coverage:
[/u]Crud V2 (not V1!): Roadracer_ | Crud-products
Better coverage at the BB than Raceblades.
Cons: paint damage to stays/fork, relies on tyre to locate.
Raceblade Long: RACEBLADE LONG BLACK - Radschützer - de - SKS Germany
Cons: stops short, funnels water into your cranks and feet. Have to remove QR skewer to remove wheel
Zefal Shield R30: Shield R30 - Zéfal
Cons: paint damage, flimsy
No mounts, proper coverage:
PDW Full Metal Fenders: Full Metal Fenders
Cons: 23mm tyre limit, maybe 25mm, Have to remove QR skewer to remove wheel unless you P-Clamp. Otherwise a total banger, check out Sime’s CAAD9 with them:
Update: Bigger ones now available, 45mm for 28-38mm tyres.
Here they are on a bike that should have proper guards on it…
Mounts & up to 28mm:
Honjo / Berthoud / VO 35mm: See below for link.
SKS Bleumels 35: SKS Germany
matte black, mudflaps, stays aren’t as nice as P35
Planet Bike Cascadia Road: Fenders Cascadia Road Black
Good hardware, good mudflaps
Mounts & 30mm+:
Honjo 35-40mm: Honjo fenders
High quality aluminium fenders, Japanese, great hardware, different finishes available, long.
Berthoud 35-51mm: New Page 1
High quality stainless steel fenders, French, great hardware, smooth finish only, long.
Velo Orange 35-52mm : Fenders - Accessories
Taiwanese made aluminium fenders, decent hardware, different finishes. Hammered finish is poxy. Long.
SKS Longboard: LONGBOARD - mudguards - de - SKS Germany
SKS Bleumels 45/53: SKS Germany
SKS P45/50: SKS Germany
Good hardware, good coverage, doesn’t always come with mudflaps/reflector.
Planet Bike Cascadia hybrid/touring: Fenders Cascadia Hybrid/Touring Black
Good hardware, good mudflaps.
None more black: Handsome Mud Butler (Black powdercoated alloy fender) 35 & 45mm widths. Average hardware.
Axiom DLX, mudflaps, disc offsets, reflective: http://www.cellbikes.com.au/Axiom-Rainrunner-DLX-Reflex-Mud-Gaurd-Set
Toba Frank, aluminium, silver, 45mm, bit short, avg hardware: http://www.cellbikes.com.au/Toba-Fenders-Frank-45mm-Silver_4
Toba Frank, aluminium, black, 30mm, bit short, avg hardware: http://www.cellbikes.com.au/Toba-Fenders-Frank-30mm
Wacky wheel sizes (20/24/26"):
SKS Bleumels: SKS Germany
Mounting fenders on carbon forks / recessed nut brakes:
Sheldon Fender Nuts: Problem Solvers
Two types, steel or carbon fork mount. Sold as a pair, makes the front fender sit right, and you don’t have to mess with your brake adjustment. Also makes removing/fitting very fast.
Mounting fenders when you have clearance but no eyelets:
P-Clamps at the bottom of the stays/fork blades.
Use a reflector mount (your LBS has boxes full of them) on the seat tube and the seatstay:
Ride with others? Don’t be a dick, extend that jam to keep your drivetrain/feet/riding buddies dry
Template and guide from Alex Wetmore using rubber stair tread:
alex wetmore’s bicycle pages
Alternatives: Cut up an old bidon, green bag base, HDPE bottle etc.
No chainstay bridge:
In decreasing order of quality
- Reflector/light mount clamped around a chainstay, drill tab and bolt fender through
- Zefal Gizmo around the seat tube, bolt fender to it
- Make a “bridge” out of a ziptie around the stays, ziptie the guard to it.
Fit a longer SS bolt (with loctite 243) in from inside the dropout, leaving the thread exposed on the outside, then clamp the guard on with a nyloc nut.
If you have a steel fork that’s open at the bottom, use a daruma around the brake bolt instead of the bracket. A frame designed for fenders will have a threaded boss under the fork instead.
Track ends & Fenders:
If you have track ends, use the SKS quick releases on the rear, so you can pop out the stays when you need to remove the wheel.
OR, you can use a tensioner and mount them to it
Improving plastic fenders:
Drill out the rivets holding the stay brackets to the guard, reshape the bracket and reattach on the outside with a button head bolt / nyloc nut (bolt head on the inside) or a blind rivet. This will prevent water on the inside splashing outwards.
BR-R451: Cheaper, still great, upgrade the pads. Designed for longer cable pull of “hidden gear cable” shimano shakes. black or matte silver
BR-R650: More $, nicer hardware, upgrade the pads. matte silver. Old cable pull ratio.
BR-R600: Discontinued, ultegra polished finished. upgrade the pads. Old cable pull ratio.
Grand Cru Long Reach: Surprisingly good brake from VO’s usual offerings, upgrade the pads.
Tektro R539: 59mm reach, QR opens to clear fat rubber, Shimano’s don’t
Tektro R737: 59mm reach, QR opens to clear fat rubber, Shimano’s don’t
TRP RG957: Should be a better, lighter version of the above. Not quite available yet.
Avoid: Miche medium reach brakes, they’re terrible.
[/u][/b]PRO Training on a Surly Pacer: Note: As of late 2011 Pacer changed to take mid reach brakes only, avoid earlier frames.
Excellent budget option: Kinesis T2, aluminium frame, road geo, paired with a DC07 carbon fork:
Review: Kinesis Racelight T2 Tiagra | road.cc | Road cycling news, Bike reviews, Commuting, Leisure riding, Sportives and more
Cream of the crop: Kinesis TK3. Aluminium frame, road geometry, tapered carbon fork, actual 28mm & fender clearance:
Just in: Kinesis Racelight TK3 | road.cc | Road cycling news, Bike reviews, Commuting, Leisure riding, Sportives and more
wiggle.com.au | Charge Juicer Hi 2013 | Road Bikes - Race (Tange Prestige!!)
wiggle.com.au | Charge Juicer 2013 | Road Bikes - Race
Wiggle Australia | Tifosi CK7 Audax Sora 2013 | Touring / Audax Bikes
Wiggle Australia | Raleigh Sojourn 700c Road Bike | Touring / Audax Bikes
Wiggle Australia | Raleigh Gran Sport 2300 2013 | Touring / Audax Bikes
Ribble Winter/Audax 7005 Frame, Frames, FRAMES ROAD
Ribble Winter/Audax 525 Frame, Frames, FRAMES ROAD
Note: Nice tyres, that have low rolling resistance, good grip, not heavy turds with massive puncture belts
31-35mm: Schwalbe Kojak, Resist Nomad. The Vittoria Voyageur is the best combo of price/protection/suppleness.
27-30mm: Resist Nomad, Schwalbe Ultremo ZX, Grand Bois Cypres / Cypres EL, Grand Bois Cerf Green, Challenge Paris-Roubaix, Challenge Strada Bianca
25-26mm: Schwalbe Ultremo ZX, Michelin Pro Race, Grand Bois Cerf Blue
Excellent article on lighting and human vision
Spanninga Pixeo: Battery (Xba, auto on/off) or dynamo (Xs), 1x5mm LED, standlight
B&M Seculite: Dynamo, 1x5mm LED, standlight. meh.
B&M 4D lite: Dynamo, 4x 5mm LEDs, standlight, protective metal bar for rear end impacts. Heavier.
B&M Secula: Dynamo, So much better than the seculite TOP PICK. OK standlight, great beam. Don’t get the seatstay mount version, the mount sucks, you’ll have to drill/hack it like this:
B&M Toplight Line Plus: Dynamo. Brake model gets brighter when you deccelerate
Philips SafeRide Lumiring: Battery/Dynamo. Better light diffusing and angle than the B&M.
Hermanns H Track like the Philips but smaller
Philips SafeRide Lightring: Smallerthan the lumiring, but good diffused light.
Philips Saferide 60: Dynamo, 60 lux, shaped beam
B&M IQ Cyo N plus: Dynamo, 60 lux, shaped beam, lightweight. UPDATE: Cyo Premium has replaced this, don’t buy unless you get a great deal on a used one.
B&M IQ Cyo N Plus Premium: AKA the 1752QSNDi-04, 80 lux! small like kitten, UPDATE: IQ-X has replaced this.
B&M IQ-X : BEST VALUE LIGHT RIGHT NOW
B&M Eyc N Plus: AKA 160RNDI, 50 lux, TINY like scale model kitten. Not that much cheaper than the Cyo Premium, beam isn’t as good.
B&M Avy: replaces the Lyt, cheap and simple, small like the Eyc, 30lux. budget light for a beater.
Schmidt eDelux: Dynamo, 80 lux, shaped beam, better cooling than Cyo N so a little brighter, shiny. Great switch.
B&M Luxos U: Dynamo, 90 lux, shaped beam, wider beam at low speed, ‘high beam’ toggle, USB recharging. The best light on the market right now (mid 2013), Currently in V3, avoid used V1 like the plague. water will get in the remote cable and kill it.
Schmidt SON: Best build quality, lowest resistance (SP & shimano very close, barely measureable), centrelock disc option, wide flange option.
Shimano 3N80: Good value, disc options, Alfine variants, bearings only serviceable on one side.
Shutter Precision: Best value, lightweight, low resistance, colour ano options, disc option.
Shimano low wattage: 1n70 / alfine S500 etc: If you can get one cheap and aren’t running more than a headlight and taillight, go for it. But unless they’re on sale, just get an SP.