choosing road hubs

With a.davis here, for sure…White ind are nice in lots of ways, but with grub screws (with 2.5mm hex) holding the whole thing tight with friction on the axle just doesn’t seem like a great way to do it, and yeah, it slipped for me but that was on MTB. I also rounded out those grub screws like crazy, trying to tighten em up so they wouldnt slip. i’m sure I was doing it wrong… maybe hope are just more eeeediot proof?
also, grease on pawls of hopes apparently quietens em down a whole heap. i assume (since people do it) that doesn’t come at the cost of sketchy engagement,

There is indeed a new H Plus Son distro in Aus and yes the prices will be rising. :[

Hipster tax is high

I’d say the baggage handlers are to blame and it’s not uncommon. Both Mrs. Spirito and my wheels needed truing after o/seas flights and these were brand new wheels. I wasn’t too worried as they had fat tyres and were 32/36h. If they were lower spoke counts I’d seriously consider a hard case (hard case would have put us over the baggage limit).

Glad to see there’s still a bit of love for 32h wheels out there.
I know a lot of current low spoke count wheels are awesome and super strong (per Ev’s hare-in-the-front-wheel of his C24s incident) but it’s nice to know a broken spoke won’t leave me stranded out the back of beyond.

^— This
The 32H wheels are on Baum#2 are for long country rides.
I know boyracer broke a spoke on his Mavics and was screwed. Only time he’s had to phone a friend according to him.

Lots of love for 32H. It just makes sense to have some redundancy in the wheel in case you break a spoke (even though this rarely happens). Especially if it’s for “training”, not much training when you can’t ride your wheel home.

Im more worried about comfort just thought 32h will be jaw chattering at 65kg, guess ill be running a bit bigger tyre and lower pressure any way so may be 28/32 may be 2x/3x

If you’re running bigger tyres and go 2 or 3x you’ll be fine. Mine are radial front and radial/3x rear, and they’re noticeably stiffer than 3x f/r, but being 23mm wide with 28mm tyres brings the comfort levels back up. I should probs have gone at least 2x, but I like the look of radial :slight_smile:

Yeah just go a bigger tyre, less pressure surely that’s a smarter way to achieve more compliance.
At your weight what about silly light Kinlin low profile rims, should be nice and flexy!

Im looking at building a set of weenie wheels… 20mm china carbon tubs, circus monkey hubs, dunno what spokes… cx rays? thinking 20/24 hole count. Hoping for around 1200gm (less would be nice). Havent done too much calculating beyond that, anything look scary dangerous there? Hoping to be back to 73kg when these wheels get built.

I’m 57kg so long as the front isn’t built radially (is that even a word?) you’ll be fine.

Can’t see anything wrong with that. The circus monkey hubs are fine, and I wouldn’t have any hesitation about 20/24 at my 70kg. Maybe have a chat to spirito, see what he reckons re: weight.
Like this I guess: Cheap 700C 20mm Carbon Road Bicycle Wheelset Carbon Fiber Bike Tubular Wheels | eBay

yes

For fucks sake lorday eat something.

Pretty much Jono, but want silver hubs and spokes for a more classic look to go on a classic style build.

Endorsed.

Sounds good.

Sell the Ciocc complete and get a steel frame/crabon fork and chorus 11 cause that what all the cool kids are doing.

Dayne, you’re overthinking this comfort thing. Air pressure and tyre width will have more influence on road feel than the wheel parts chosen. yes, 32h laced radially to a Deep V and they’d be harsher than a 28h 3x to a TB14 but it’d be harder to detect than a few psi or a 23 vs 25c section tyre.

you’re light … 65kg, even for a training high mile wheelset you could get away with a low spoke count. Spoke count will be determined by the rim type you plan on using.

random thoughts #5,430 on this thread …

I’ll echo Jono about “plain jane” shimano hubs. I have an Ultegra on my main ride, strong, require very little if any maintenance and have proven they are more or less foolproof. A few gm’s at the hubs isn’t a big factor, especially for training wheels (all weather, high milage, low maintenance). In fact, I have a set of Tiagra hubbed wheels that are now of their 3rd bike and 4th year. Built with cheap Alex rims, straight gauge spokes … I figured i’d throw them out when they needed maintenance or an overhaul, which is yet to happen. Everybody needs an “i don’t give a shit” set of wheels.

I’m not dissing light weight hubs, they’re awesome too and if you got bags of money then who am I to say. But, a training wheelset is usually a no brainer … a little more foolproof, less likely to need overhauling and somewhere where a few grams and a few spokes don’t matter as much. Higher the mileage = more chance for a crash (higher percentage, like when insurance companies offer a lower premium if you drive less miles on your car, less likely to crash) or getting smashed on bad roads, hence up the spoke count.

To contradict the above, hubs have been getting better and better as have rims and spokes. I had the chance to check out the wheels I built up for Kanye recently. He had no chance but to ride straight over a branch bigger than my arm (whilst I did my first fixed gear bunnyhop in years !!!). I though his sub 1kg wheels were gonna be smashed but the rear Enve rim (and I rate these so much!!) needed just a slight touch. I thought the 134g hub would be toast after 7500km’s but the freehub wasn’t too bad at all and the bearings were more or less fine too. He brakes hard, has used the wheels for racing and i’m blown away at how little the rim walls have worn in this time. So much so I have asked to buy these rims when he retires them as I’ll build em up for the track without any qualms.

so yeah … I’m a little conservative and may favour old school wheels but I’m happy to say I’m blown away with wheel products at the high end and that use the best of innovation. Truly amazing. But I reserve this for the best and I don’t care too much using or building wheels from components made by companies who don’t do much testing, release much info about their product or have a company address your lawyers can’t find. For this reason I don’t care too much for cheap rims, hubs and spokes and i won’t build with them as you’re being in a wheelchair will be my liability. They may well be fine but it’s not worth me losing sleep over.

People who suggest 2x vs. 3x to save a few grams are really on a false economy here. The grams are minimal yet the strength factor is a lot more than many assume. Depending on the hubs, rim type etc some wheels require a low spoke crossing but these are rare. Many will argue this but I say either 3x (or even 4x if you can) or radial. 1x is neither here or there and 2x saves but a few grams of fuck all. Just my opinion (and I got lots of them) :slight_smile:

the only conundrum is that wheels both high and low spoke counts are a helluva lot stronger than they used to be. In the old days a crash or a severe pot hole usually meant the front wheel took most or all of the impact … and frames stayed relatively undamaged. These days I see more and more forks and frames busted before a wheel is so smashed it’s unrideable. Even on my own bikes I’ve tossed a frame after a crash and used the front wheel. I’m not saying we should build shitter front wheels but the cost of replacing a wheel is usually a lot less than a frame or fork … just throwing it out there as it’s something to think about.

crashes and impact is where the higher spoke counts help. not as many would assume at the actual impact, extra spokes help a little but rims can only handle so much force from a sudden impact. Where the extra spokes help is in redistributing the wheels tension when retuing. A radial ding or hop is more or less shows-over, a lateral ding can be saved but having more spokes makes it a helluva lot easier and more likely to help hold the wheel together in the long term. Wheels are strong & last a long time if they have even tension, dinging or buckling a rim means adjusting spoke tension in that area so to bring it back true … the more spokes you have the more gradual the spoke tension difference is likely to be between neighbouring spokes (spoke tension can end up varying 20-30% in this buckled area when compared to neighbour spokes), low spoke wheels mean that the difference between spoke tensions will be too great and will likely fail over time (new rim time). To counter this most manufacturers/people go to heavier weight rims and higher spoke tensions, stronger wheel but you’ll still need a new rim for sure if they buckle.

Seeing a few people mention being able to ride home if a spoke breaks. This is true and a good thing and whilst spokes shouldn’t break they sometimes do with impact or if something gets thrown into your wheels (branch etc). If a spoke breaking whilst just riding then something isn’t right with regard the wheel unless it’s done incredible mileage and fatigue stress limits have been reached. This is where spokes like CX Ray’s have their place … they’re not gonna build a stronger wheel by much even though the tensile strength is 50% more than a straight gauge (the limiting factor here is rim strength with regard to spoke tension) but that wheel will be able to last perhaps 2 or 3 times (or even more) longer than a wheel with regular spokes because the fatigue strength loads have it well over 3 to 5 times longer in terms of cycle counts.

Flo Cycling Blog: FLO Cycling - Component Series Part 3 - Sapim Spokes

Lastly, it seems very few people actually wear their wheels out. I’ve replaced maybe 2 or 3 sets of rims on built wheels where the rims have worn. Modern rims are better than old rims in this regard (more meat where needed). I applaud those who actually rack up the miles to replace rims, in fact I see them as the true road warriors.

Wheels are magic, I still marvel how so little can be built so strong. If the same approach to engineering bridges, cars and buildings were used on our wheels they would end up weighing be 3 or 4 times heavier than they do. They really are super structure’s, design miracles and so many of people make such trivial decisions over a few grams when they lose the bigger picture over just how advanced and developed most wheels are. Ants are giants of the animal world because they can carry 50 times their own weight … most peoples wheels are twice as strong (carrying 100 times or more of their own weight) yet many would still like to lose a few grams so it looks better on paper. Go figure …

^that was genuinely beautiful.

/thread.

News to me. Who is it? We have been selling these rims for years, pre-tb14/archetype. They sell well and the price is right.