perkins track frame and forks
sugino mighty cranks 48t mighty comp chain ring, shamano BB
mks royal unique pedals mks cages and toshi singles
nitto jaguar post and san marco royal ti seat
phil wood high flange 32’s swiss dt rims and dt spokes
random stem that my mate lent me and nitto flat bars with shadow conspiracy grips
sugino mash cog set 18t and a campy lock ring
ultegra brake and pauls e lever
campy head set
56cm top tube, 52 seat tube
waiting on a campy crank set, nitto crystal fellow stem and gota spin the sugino super lap BB out of my other frame and fit it to this one…
why cause its quite stiff… i have noticed the firmer ride already but that kinda comes with riding a track frame on the street… i tend to ride around pot holes and that kinda thing on the road… i really like the lively feel it has…!
i was racing to get it out for a ride… pretty much pulled the parts off my other bike, cleaned and re-greased every thing and bolted it on…
i’m having a way easier time skidding the longer frame so the brake might not last long
just got a set on bontrager race lite tires from my mate for a steal
Yeah just watch 853 dude. The stuff is coke can thick. Very light and yes stiff. Doesn’t hold very well to even minnimal abuse from hitting tiny bumps. Thats why track cyclists sold these things every season or two. Looks sweet, but its just a heads up. I personally wouldn’t take 853 anywhere near the street.
Personally i have never ridden 853. My opinion on 853 is from freinds who have personally ridden on it. From their experiences it was only ever good on the track and not the road. Its good stiff stuff yes. Its very light. but i am just very iffy bout how it would go on the road with everyday bumps and the like. Still a beautiful build i can’t take that from it
Maybe your friends had crap bikes? It’s not just hte tubeset that matters. It’s the method and quality of construction. I could probably make a really shit bike with a nice tubeset.
Consider that many reputable brands have and still use 853 for cyclocross, cross country and road frames…and…quite often it’s not the whole frame - it might be the main triangle or the only two of the main tubes, so it becomes difficult to say that tubeset ‘x’ is good or bad.
Don’t blame the tubes man! It’s not their fault.
Have a look at a Columbus EL frame - you can usually squeeze the top tube with your thumb and forefinger
Don’t forget that tubesets come in different wall thicknesses/butts too.
An “853” bike can be many things, and as snowflake says, it’s probably only the main tubes, with 725 (TIG weldable heat treated Cr-Mo) stays. The builder selects different alloys/sizes/thickness/shaped tubes depending on the rider and application.
For example, the round 853 tubes come in five different ODs, and within that there’s different wall thicknesses and butting profiles. A 28.6mm tube can have .65/.45/.65, .75/.45./75, .8/.5/.8, .8/.4/.6, .7/.5, .8/.6/1.05 (ext bulge), .9/.6/1.2 (ext bulge) walls, and I won’t list the butt profiles available too.
Of course whilst I wouldn’t thrash a Columbus Record track frame on the street, (old lower strength alloy with 0.5mm straight gauge tubing), if this frame was built for training on the road, then it’s likely built a sturdier than an all out 853 track racing frame and will be fine.