so how about that rawland ravn?

If youre paying $1000 for a frameset, youd want provision for it

Cycling has never been in a worse position,
Fuck this disc/non disc 10 bottom brackets that are all standard, made up bike disciplines steel v carbon, worlds most sought after custom builder advertising to find some one to give bikes away to companies suing companies over a name that they are actually using under licscence that is actually the name of a town.
Caad 9’s are the best thing ever now but 4 years ago they sucked.
Can I subscribe to some newsletter that has the answers to all my problems that updates me cos I’m lost
I don’t know hey guess I’m just having a bad day

Oh and this post is one of those yeah, nah, yeah situations that I’m laughing but crying can some one bring me donuts, batch brew and a blanket and hugs

I love it when Dayne cracks it

Thanks James,
On second thought hold the donuts I think the pastries and all that gluten has made me a little emotional

New sig.

Gears and brakes on bikes - who created that monster?

Mr Dunlop and Goodyear also have a lot to answer.

Quote Originally Posted by sean
“The tubing choice comes down to the $725 frameset made with Taiwanese tubing in .8/.5/.8 or .9/.6./.9 standard diameter, non-heat treated depending on size, or paying an extra $475 for Reynolds 853 exclusively drawn for Rawland in England, not an island in the Pacific.”[/FONT][/COLOR]

Hey! I lived on a Pacific island for years, had some of the best times in my life there. Beats the hell out of Albion any day.

Fuuuuu

i have no regrets about starting this thread whatsoever ;p

FTFY

also 130 x disc? I suppose you could use a shortened freehub on a MTB hub and get a sweet 6 speed (oh wait it’s not a rivendel)

having both canti and disk mounts would increase weight and might adversely affect BB height though.

also they might not be able to use ridiculously thin wall tubes and would have to resort to…
gasp “tubing made on an island in the pacific”

Am I missing something? How does adding a disk mount affect BB height?

It’s a geometry thing you wouldn’t understand

By 1mm, you can notice the difference

ftfy

A+ response from Zach as well ;p

Yeah good pickup on the 130mm rear & disc… Faarrk

Still want this bike. Actually i want a Kumo version of it

…Well one positive aspect for me is that large volume 26" IS BAAAACCCKK!
I’m not particularly fond of slugglish Big Apples and Super Moto’s are getting very hard to source, so I’m excited about the tyre - It’s what I’ve been hoping for without ever realistically expecting it to happen. So yay.

I’d even say I’m curiously excited to see the bike. I’d echo that threadless would have been a much more sensible choice, even if it retained a 1" steerer. But I’m not particularly put off by that - Rivendell/Nitto make a gorgeous revised Bullmoose bar, and Nitto Dirt Drop stems are still readily available for all else. Might even be able to work a Jones in there with some ugly 31.8 face plate quill, IDK.

But the argument against using discs on the bike - that it allows for the use of super light fork blades - doesn’t make sense to me. How light do you want the fork blades on a front loaded mountain bike, and how much extra road dampening do you need on a bike with a 2.25" tyre?

I haven’t ridden enough low trail to know whether or not it would handle well off road, so I can’t comment on that, but I will say that I’d like my mountain bikes to front load better for light touring. But I’d also like the ability to take weight off of the front wheel to get it over an obstacle, so that limits front load weight. Meh.

The 130mm rear spacing is silly. Currently to replace a rear wheel on my 126mm MTBs, I have to build a road hub or 7 speed MTB hub to a 26" rim, and that that is very annoying. If it were disc and 130, it would not be as big of a problem as it’s made out to be - White Industries make a hub, Velocity make one, Novatec make one, there’s your three price points met. Still have to custom build wheels, but I can live with that, as I would build them anyway. For the sake of longevity, I would rather that the dropout be spaced to 132.5 and the stays crimped. I can live with the extra 4 mm of Q factor in 25 years time if no 130mm disc hubs are available.

I could geek out over early mountain bikes and Suntour friction shift all day, and I plan to build one to tour on for the second half of this year, so I think we can assume that me and about 19 others who don’t already own Rivendell Bombadil’s are the target market for this bike - And as it is, I wouldn’t buy it. The revisions that I do wish for have not been made, and some of the revisions that were made I don’t particularly like.

TL;DR - I’m the target market, I like the bike and have nearly bought a Rawland before, but until it has discs, and 132.5mm spacing, and is available as a frame only (and wasn’t made of goober tubing - if I were going to spend five grand in one go, I’d get this custom made), then I’d buy it.

Whoa that was long sorry everyone. Go back to BNA right!..

low trail and front loading on a MTB is choice off road

My drakkar (the low trail fork version) goes pretty good front loaded although the extreme bend in the fork and the cockpit setup means it does get a bit vague. The fork is plenty supple even with the disc -though I agree re who needs a supple fork with a 2" tyre.

132.5 and disc is a pain, almost as much as track ends!

cos you have to spread the frame the extra 2.5mm the same every time to make sure the disc is aligned and you don’t have to align the callpier, its not such a big deal with rim brake bikes cos more clearance at the pad. Hence why the soma and surly CX bikes are 132.5 spaced and there disc ones are 135mm - though this could mainly be due to disc hubs in 130mm
being rare.
If this was 650bx45c tyres Or 26x2.1", 135mm spaced (who needs a 50t + ring off road?!), disc, threadless (1" is fine cos looks nice in small tubes) it’d sell well I reckon.

This will not.

But if guys are racing downhill(the most tech riding Eva) on 650b why 26 it’s dead it’s over its kind of like putting a 6v alternator in a new beetle is it not? You either have old or new if you buy new but old I just don’t get it ?
I’d love an explanation I’m really lost

This is just a road bike with 26" wheels bruh