^ Just paint stripper from your favourite hardware store?
Yeah, that makes sense! there are some stickers too…but I guess a hard plastic brush for those.
blow drier and a credit card?
There’s a 5% surcharge on Amex, though.
well said Horse,
your advice is helpful to me. Thanks.
Any advice for filling a small top tube dent before blasting, then powdercoating? I won’t be getting the frame back after getting it media blasted, so I won’t be able to fill the dent then. Was hoping to there would be something I could use that would survive the blasting and then powdercoat temperature.
Builders bog should probably resist blasting?
I have some of this:
Tempted to give it a shot.
My experience of knead it is that it will survive the apocalypse
Surviving is fine, as long as it stays put in the dent. Also, doesn’t powdercoating rely on an electrical charge through the steel to attract the powder?
I don’t think Knead It will survive the curing process. It’s only rated to withstand temps of 120°C.
If you get it blasted after you fill the dent, won’t the bog/whatever be sticking to paint left underneath it? It also won’t powdercoat because of the electrical charge required, from what I’ve been told (may not be 100% true).
Like the others say. probably not JLN. I would have thought the bog would get pitted - cue Surfer Dude interview - quite badly or deformed.
Get it back once its been blasted and fill it with an epoxy putty that is impregnated with metal filament such as this: Epoxy Putty for Powder Coating > Alvin Products
if you get it back once its been blasted you can check it over anyways.
Otherwise just be one with the dent.
Yeah, I think I’ll just leave it, or try and convince JR from Rogers to fill it for me with something that will survive blasting and powdercoating.
So…taking the frame in to get blasted and coated this week. I’m using a old Salsa quill stem on this build and thinking of getting it coated to match. Has anyone ever had a quill stem powdercoated? I’m assuming the thickness of the coat might cause some issues.
Yeh, it will scrape off where it’s inserted into the headset and inside the handlebar clamp.
they often have a heat resistant mask, so if you know the insertion depth, mark it and get them to tape the quill from there down. gives you a nicer edge and saves having to sand or scrape it off / get a chipped edge.
Don’t forget you’ll also need to tap out the bar clamp threads, maybe drill out the seat for the head of the bolt, possibly sand the inside of the bar clamp area. All depends on coating thickness and tolerances.
Here’s a paint related question, i used a satin base coat (automotive acrylic) so it would make sense to use a satin clear coat right?
Doesn’t have to be, undercoats are typically rougher so the top coat has something to grab on to.
I’m not a paint expert though.