That sir, is just awesome. Especially like the looptail dropouts, so BMX.
I like your dogs.
Might have bought another retro MTB after a tip off from justDave earlier this week.
Lugged Trek 970 Singletrack
Was pretty yuck. Looked like it was being used by one of those old blokes that collects cans.
Shimano EX300 DS crank with a single ring. Steel NDS crank and completely thrashed pedals.
Wheels are heavy, single wall rims to loose ball Joytech or worse hubs.
Was running a 5 speed freewheel and a SIS plastic shifter.
Steel stem doesn’t look too bad and would paint up a treat.
Was worried about the BB thread but they are good
All stripped & a quick clean
Will most likely run a rigid fork, either a Surly like this or a segmented fork if I can find the right A-C
Paint is very ratty in places, scratches to bare metal but all original decals.
Could try and find decals and get it repainted or clean it well and have it clearcoated.
Larfin, you’re going to need a pretty short axle-crown fork I reckon. Is it 1" or 1-1/8"?
Probably something like this Universal Cycles – Dimension Rigid Non Disc Fork
Saw a kid riding this round on Saturday, managed to grab a pic when he locked it up.
Loved the fork crown.
this is cool
1988 Easton ALX99 mountain bike | Bicycles | Gumtree Australia Yarra Area - Collingwood | 1057918455
picked this up a few weeks ago. some parts have changed since this photo but mostly its as it was when i got it.
budget and my lack of MTB knowledge has made things a bit slow.
but, it is a 1996 Diamondback WCF 2.0
WCF standing for welded carbon fibre. its similar to the bonded tube construction that vitus, alan and sakae used.
Although the lug to tube transition is much smoother and of course much stiffer / stronger.
The shox are Rock Shox Quadra 21R. bit old and the previous owner had spray painted them a bit.
Thats cool. Got a close-up of a join or two?
Yep, you are correct. Further research show this to be a '93 model. Came with a threaded, non-suspension corrected, 1 1/8 fork. So an A-C of 395-400mm. I put a Charge Scissor V2 fork on it for shits & giggles. The A-C was 435mm and just too long.
It’s now got a canti boss only Surly 1x1 fork on it and it’s much better.
I’ve got an Identiti Tuning fork on it’s way which has an A-C f 395mm and should be bang on.
Otherwise Velogear have cheap non-sus corrected forks for $50
So I finally finished this after:
- buying from Spirito
- put drops on it and deciding it wasn’t working
- putting it into ‘offsite’ storage for almost a year
- buying a Surly Long Haul Trucker
- selling the frameset to justDave
- buying the frameset back from justDave
Built it up with modern Deore 3x9 group
Will ride it a bit before doing any more on it, I have put a black rear rack on it and a tool bag on the Brooks
Future mods include a Nitto MT-11 mtb stem and silver Nitto flatbars to replace the quill adapter, Ritchey bars and stem.
And I might have bought this:
Loving the panto’d fork tips. I had a fork like this on an polo bike.
Not sure which way I’m going to go with this.
Would like to go Bullmoose, Paul thumbies, maybe older XT mechs for a 3x8 setup but won’t know until it arrives. Looks like it’s bottom pull, traditional swing front mech which might change mech options.
I replaced rear brake calipers & brake line son my old MTB yesterday, gave her a clean and service as well:
Sweet! not a suntour fan? I’d not heard of that model, google revealed what I’m sure you already know, that it was a nice bike with suntour build kit, which is rare (if not unique) for GT.
Far out, suddenly this thread is on fire! Nice bike directly above, too… looks summery as heck.
Liking that steel Spesh… Makes me smile.
I was too slow to grab the groupset as well.
Suntour is ok, I need to see the cable routing to work out if it’s v-brake only.
Tubeset is Tange Infinity, same as the orange Gemini.
I am running a mish-mash of parts on mine - but I have a 97 Marin dually to pick up running a mix of 8 speed XT & STX that will swap right over.
larfinboy I think you’ll find the cable routing is set up for centrepull cantis, there will be a housing stop at the front of the top tube, then IIRC the bare cable is guided through a couple of loops down to the brake. Might be able to sandwich housing between the rearmost top tube loop as a stop and the noodle if you want to run a v-brake.
Good to see everyone’s retro mtbs are alive and kicking!
Looks like I could go either way….
It looks like there is a braze-on for the bare cable for cantis on the drive side of the seat tube.
This shows a cable running through that braze-on. I had avoided frames that on;y had this braze-on and no rear cable stop.
Yeah they’ll be using the rear top tube cable guide as a sort of cable stop, but IIRC it’s like a short tube noodle (not slotted, no provision for outer housing). You can do that with most noodle guide equipped centrepull bikes.