To paraphrase heavymetal, you ain’t Dutch you ain’t much. Front shift cable was way too short so I’ll remedy that tomorrow, cut a few links from the chain and bar tape it.
Gone matchy double Dutch:
I’ve still got my teal Champion Mondial as well but it lives upstairs inside.
Finished it. Bartape is good enough for now, some hood position fettling may yet be required. The feeling of what I thought was fork flex went away when I put 90PSI in the tyres…funny that.
why do i feel like that riser version needs a front rack and basket!
Recommendations accepted. Keeping in mind, no dropout eyelets.
OT: busted this out of storage for the first time in 18 months and cleaned it off. Forgot just how nose-down it was but keen to ride it this weekend.
Rode the Masi. But also finished and rode the Gazelle CX. Developed an issue due to the FD cable loop pulling on the front straddle cable under right turns. Solved that by doing this. Still stops very acceptably. The old narrow canti boss spacing issues rears its head again, but these work very well.
Bargain! 
Foo
Nice score! 
Allez got new chain/cassette/E1 crank arms, Hook got the hand me down Red D1 cranks.
Good looking bikes and good wheels 
They look like Fizik Arione saddles. I used them for years and still ok but I get a bit of saddle sores now with ageing skin after longer rides. I have a couple of these in crmoly rail EVA
Might work for you if needed. Might not too though. Anyway nice bikes.
Cheers WH.
Yep, all my bikes run ariones, they suit my rear end 
Currently running a tundra on my mtb, but not sure i want to stick with it. Seems ok, problem is i dont ride long enough or in the saddle long enough to really know if the tundra suits me or not!
If it’s not a problem, then it suits the application.
I find the same with MTB and my predispostion to stand on steeper climbs. The WTB Volt and Speed saddles are no real problem. But I don’t use them long enough for them to be a problem if they weren’t the best.
Yeh, pretty much my conclusion as well!
Did my usual 20km / 400m vert loop on it yesterday and cant say im ever uncomfortable on it.
I think its more my mind saying i also need arione on the mtb because all my other bikes have it, however riding possie is very different.
Back to single speed mode for the commuter
I like your bikes Jase.
Bought a $20 white Malvern star frame, quick rattle can, cold set the rear, slapped on some parts bin or cheapo parts, ss kit, threw it in a box, rebuilt it in a hotel room, rode around Manila, had a blast, donated it, flew home
Schwalbe Click valves:
I have a Silca HP floor pump with a screw on pump head or chuck, which I’ve been generally content with. But being a HP pump with a 160psi gauge, I wasn’t happy with the lack of precision of the gauge. So I bought a Topeak Joeblow Mountain II floor pump. It works OK and the gauge is precise, but the TwinHead pump head is IME hard to use and loses too much air on release. This makes it unimpressive for its intended purpose.
So I bought some Clik valves for my two MTBs and the commuter, and a pump head adaptor for the Topeak pump. They have transformed the ease of use and precision of the pump. Just a quick push on, pull off arrangement with little effort, unlike the two handed, difficult TwinHead. Where before I appeared to be losing about 1.5 psi when realeasing (on a good disengagement), now I barely lose 0.5 psi after release and reengagement.
The down sides I can see so far is that they sit taller than presta valves. When they screw in, they don’t seat all the way on the valve housing. So at least 1 thread is exposed between the Click valve body and the housing it screws into. This happened on all my various valve housings, so I think it will be common. This weakens the potential durabiltiy IMO. Maybe someone will make some Click valve washers to fix this issue in the future.
So far, worth buying and using with a floor pump. But I’ll be keeping presta valves in my spare tubes for use with a mini pump for flat tyres repairs on the trail.
Had a lucky find the other day. Noticed a big crack in the 3d printed seatpost mount for the Varia rct715 on my Reacto. A smidge off breaking. Put the concentric cycling goer back on.
You show it pays to inspect rather than losing something on the road, or worse.
You are probably happy with your tyre pressure compromise, but cracking mounts point to possibly higher than ideal tyre pressures, or a weak mount.
Which incidently brings me to the crazy low tyre pressures I run for grip. With the old Silca HP pump I thought I was running about 17 psi on the Kona, but the new Topeak floor pump - which I’ve heard reads about 1.5 psi low - suggest I’m actually running about about 13 psi and the "26 Avanti 15 psi. I suppose that’s what it takes if you want climbing grip from light trail tyres and you’re under 70 kg.
